Naujieji avalynės pavadinimai

doi.org/10.35321/term26-09 New Footwear Names AUŠRA RIMKUTĖ-GANUSAUSKIENĖ Institute of the Lithuanian Language ABSTRACT The aim of this article is to determine the origins of 47 footwear names found in the Database of Lithuanian Neologisms, discuss their expression, and reveal the peculiarities of the use of these new footwear names. Almost all the names are neologisms coined neither by footwear specialists nor by linguists; they will not be found in any official language-use recommendations or terminological dictionaries. They are used mainly by stylists, journalists, and bloggers who write about fashion. The emergence, spread, or failure to gain currency of new names for contemporary footwear is a natural phenomenon in the development of terminology. KEYWORDS: fashion term, footwear, footwear name, clothing term, neologism, database. ABSTRACT The article is aimed at determining the origins of 47 names of contemporary footwear found in the Database of Lithuanian Neologisms, discussing their expression, and unveiling the peculiarities of their use. The majority of the names are neologisms that were created not by footwear experts or linguists; we will not find them in any official recommendations for language use or terminological dictionaries. They are used mostly by stylists, journalists, and bloggers writing about fashion. The emergence of new names of contemporary footwear, their spread or non-adoption is a natural development of terminology. KEYWORDS: term of fashion, footwear, name of footwear, term of clothing, neologism. INTRODUCTORY REMARKS Archaeological excavations show that clothing originated in the earliest periods of human development. It is thought that one of the main reasons that compelled people to cover themselves was an unfavourable climate (Ogijienė, Šakienė 1995: 19). Footwear was a particularly important part of clothing. Over the centuries, it has changed. Today, footwear not only protects the feet but also reflects a person’s individuality, relationship with fashion, and artistic outlook, 184 Aušra Rimkutė-Gan ausauskienė | Naujieji avalynės pavadinimai helps it stand out. It has long been “made from a variety of materials: leather, wood, cork, fabric, flax, hemp, jute, wool, and others” (VLE 2019) and decorated in various ways. Footwear of a more complex construction is called footwear. Thus, the concept of footwear is broader than that of footwear; moreover, it also encompasses footwear prototypes made since ancient times—bast shoes, rawhide shoes, wooden clogs, overshoes, socks, sandals, various shoes, slippers, etc. (for more, see the article on footwear in VLE 2019). Footwear terminology has received relatively little attention from linguists. Danutė Sabaliauskaitė (now Liutkevičienė) has written about footwear names of German origin. In 1995, her article “Names of Clothing and Footwear of German Origin in the Lithuanian Language” (Sabaliauskaitė 1995: 100–120) was published in Lietuvių kalbotyros klausimai. Information about footwear vocabulary can be found in linguist Algirdas Sabaliauskas’s book Lietuvių kalbos leksika (Sabaliauskas 1990). The article “Terminology of Old Leather Footwear” by archaeological conservator Arūnas Puškorius was published in the journal Lietuvos archeologija (Puškorius 2007: 229–256). A number of observations on footwear terms have been made by Jonas Šukys (1993: 14), Pranas Kniūkšta (2001: 550–551), and others. Most footwear names appear in terminology dictionaries: Juozas Pričinauskas’s Rusų–lietuvių kalbų prekių žodyne (1996) and Aprangos žodyne: lietuvių–anglų–vokiečių–prancūzų–rusų kalbų aprangos žodyne (2002); Stanislovas Algimantas Ratautas, Eugenija Strazdienė, and Ada Gulbinienė’s Aiškinamajame aprangos terminų žodyne: daugiau nei 6000 terminų lietuvių, anglų, vokiečių, prancūzų ir rusų kalbomis (2014); as well as in standards: Lietuvos standarte LST EN 1222: 2000. Avalynė. Avalynės ir jos komponentų kondicionavimo ir bandymo standartinės atmosferos sąlygos and Lietuvos standarte LST EN ISO 19952: 2005. Avalynė. Žodynas. A footwear term or two can also be found in Aiškinamajame tekstilės terminų žodyne: su vokiečių, anglų, prancūzų ir rusų kalbų atitikmenimis (2001), Stanislovas Stonkus’s Sporto terminų žodyne (2002), and elsewhere. At the Institute of the Lithuanian Language, an online Database of Lithuanian Neologisms has been under development since late 2011 (hereafter, the Neologisms Database, http://naujažodziai.lki.lt)), one of the most important and interesting continually updated resources of contemporary Lithuanian, which can be studied from the perspectives of origin, norm, semantics, and other aspects. As the database’s initiator, linguist Rita Miliūnaitė, writes, it collects the new lexicon of the 21st century, reflecting developments in the lexicon and semantics of the Lithuanian language over recent decades, Terminologija | 2019 | 26 185 morfeminės, dar ybinės struktūros pokyčius (Miliūnaitė 2018: 1–2). Naujažodžių duomenyne galima rasti ir įvairių sričių naujų vartosenoje atsiradusių terminų, jų apibrėžčių ir kitų semantikos paaiškinimų, atitikmenų kitomis kalbomis, sinonimų bei autentiškų vartosenos pavyzdžių su šaltinių nuorodomis. The aim of this article is to discuss new footwear names recorded in the Database of Lithuanian Neologisms. New footwear names are defined as words not listed in the Dictionary of the Lithuanian Language, Dictionary of Contemporary Lithuanian, or Dictionary of Standard Lithuanian, and in some cases, new meanings of words not recorded in these sources. To achieve this aim, the following objectives were set: 1) to inventory new footwear names, 2) to determine the proportions of Lithuanian, borrowed, and mixed-origin names, 3) to discuss the predominant word-formation types, and 4) to reveal the characteristics of the formation of new footwear terminology. Footwear names were sought by reviewing the database headwords in sequence. As of December 23, 2018, there were about 4,900 headwords and about 19,000 illustrative examples (http://nauja zodziai.lki.lt/?Apie_duomenyną). The subject of the article is 47 new footwear names (38 distinct names and their synonyms), examined mainly using descriptive-analytical and comparative methods. The new footwear names found in the Database of Lithuanian Neologisms are set out in the article on new lines, in uppercase and in alphabetical order, and are distinguished by letter spacing. The discussion of footwear names draws on terminology dictionaries and the definitions they provide. Where a footwear name is absent from terminology dictionaries, the description given in the database is used. The discussion also considers what people interested in footwear, journalists, and stylists write about these names. Quantitative data are presented in figures. EXPRESSION OF NEW FOOTWEAR NAMES By origin, new footwear names can be divided into 1) native, that is, of Lithuanian origin; 2) foreign-origin names, that is, words borrowed from other languages; and 3) mixed-origin or hybrid names (containing elements from other languages) (see Fig. 1). Foreign-origin names make up the largest share of the footwear names found in the Database of Lithuanian Neologisms (51 percent); as can be seen from Figure 1, mixed-origin names are the least numerous (21 percent). 186 Aušra Rimkutė-Ganusauskienė | Naujieji avalynės pavadinimai Fig. 1. Distribution of new footwear names by origin Names of Lithuanian origin A total of 13 footwear names of purely Lithuanian origin were found in the Database of Lithuanian Neologisms (28 percent, Fig. 1). One of them consists of two words, while the others consist of one. As we will see from the examples, the latter footwear names are prefix or suffix derivatives and compounds. Overshoes. In the Explanatory Dictionary of Clothing Terms (hereafter EDC), compiled by S. A. Ratautas, E. Strazdienė, and A. Gulbinienė, footwear worn over other footwear to protect against cold, moisture, and dirt, or to protect indoor floors from soiling, etc., is called by this derivative formed with the native-origin prefix ant- (EDC 2014: 21). The Database of Lithuanian Neologisms gives two meanings of this term: the first matches the meaning in the dictionary just mentioned, while the second is “short gaiters worn over shoes.” The Lithuanian-origin term antbačiai, meaning “protective footwear worn over shoes,” is used instead of the foreignism bachilai, bachilos (Russian бахилы)1, and the second meaning is used instead of the foreignism getrai (Russian гетры, <French guêtres)2. 1 The loanword bachilai is found in the Database of Maritime Terminology in Use, where it is considered unacceptable. In the Terminology Corrections published in 1992, it is treated as a foreignism and replaced by the word combination fisherman’s boots (TT 1992: 21). The EDC does not include this loanword, but it does give the term pušnys, whose second meaning is “special long boots, sometimes shaped like trousers, worn while fishing with a rod, riding, etc., and fastened to a belt or suspenders; associated with puškėti ‘to wade through water’ and puškuoti ‘to wade with difficulty’; also called wading boots” (EDC 2014: 351). 2 The word getrai is found in VLE 2019; Interleksis 2003; VaitkTŽŽ 2003. It is recorded in the Dictionary of the Lithuanian Language and Dictionary of Contemporary Lithuanian (hereafter DŽ; the singular form getras is given, meaning “gaiter; overshoe”). Terminologija | 2019 | 26 187 The Dictionary of the Lithuanian Language (hereafter LKŽ) does not include the word antbačiai, but uses the literary word antkurpiai with this meaning: “cloth footwear worn over shoes, gaiter, leg covering”: Many people wear overshoes so that their feet do not get cold (written source). The term antkurpiai, meaning “cloth or leather footwear worn over men’s shoes, worn by military personnel and civilians,” is included in the Illustrated Glossary (IŽ 2015: 435). It is used when discussing footwear from the early 19th to the 20th century. Interestingly, the term blauzdinės is used in the book on fashion history Fashion: From Prehistoric Times to the Present Day to mean “a protective covering for the legs and shoes, originally made of leather” (TŽ 2014: 278)3. In the latest normative Dictionary of Standard Lithuanian (hereafter, BŽ, http://bkz.lki.lt/)), the “footwear” meaning is not recorded; cf.: leg warmer, “a protective (against cold, scratches, varicose veins, etc.) footless sock,” and leg warmers, “leggings.” KILLER SHOES (English killer shoes). This two-word name is used in informal styles4 when referring to one type of high-heeled footwear5—shoes with very high heels that are difficult to walk in and can cause the wearer to fall. This is presumably why they are given a metaphorical name, attributing the qualities of a killer to the shoes. The EDC does not include this name; however, shoes with very high heels are referred to by the two-word term high-heeled footwear; compare LKŽ aukštingas “having many tall features, very tall (of a building).” The Database of Lithuanian Neologisms gives the variants batai-žudikai and bateliai-žudikai, as well as the synonyms killeriai (see Names of English origin) and taksi batai (see Names of mixed origin). In the media, these shoes are also called high-heeled killers6. It should be noted that the hyphenated variants are incorrect, since Lithuanian spelling rules do not require a hyphen between syntactically unequal nouns. without any evaluative labels. The word appears in the dictionaries by J. Prčinauskas mentioned at the beginning of the article (Prčinauskas 1996: 587; 2002: 36), with a cross-reference to blauzdines. In the 2005 edition of the Language Advice book Lexicon: Use of Loanwords, the word getrai was presented as an unacceptable foreignism: “1. leggings (tights without feet); 2. tights; 3. overshoes; 4. sport. leg warmers” (KP 2005: 53), and in 2013 as a foreignism whose use should be avoided: “1. leg warmers; 2. overshoes; 3. leggings” (KP 2013: 31). In sports terminology dictionaries, getrais refers to knee-high socks without feet (STŽ 1996: 171; 2002: 276). 3 Compare DŽ blauzdinė “a protective sock without a foot (against cold, scratches, varicose veins, etc.).” 4 In the article, the term informal styles is used to refer to texts in colloquial, literary, and, in part, journalistic style. 5 The term aukštakulniai does not appear in dictionaries of clothing terminology, although in everyday usage this adjective is used substantivally. 6 N. Bunkė bought killer high heels: asks for advice. Available online: www.tv3.lt/naujiena/pramogos/975970/n-bunke-isigijo-aukstakulnius-zudikus-praso-patarimo [accessed 2019-08-03]. 188 Aušra Rimkutė-Ganusauskienė | Naujieji avalynės pavadinimai This footwear name most likely appeared in online and print media because there is no short, one-word designation for this type of footwear. ČEŽUTĖS. The linguist Jonas Šukys proposed this neologism in place of the foreignism češkės (Russian чешки) as early as 1993 in Gimtojoje kalboje: “In kindergartens, children exercise and dance wearing certain light shoes, so-called čėškėmis. Usually, the two-word phrase gimnastikos bateliai is used instead. One could also suggest the neologism čėžutės, since these shoes rustle when put on and when running” (Šukys 1993: 14). AATŽ lists gimnastikos bateliai as the term (AATŽ 2014: 88). In the booklet Kalbos patarimų, the abbreviation šnek. (“colloq.”) appears next to the word čėžučės. Thus, use of the neologism is recommended in colloquial, that is, unofficial, language, while preference is given to the term gimnastikos bateliai (KP 2005: 38). BŽ defines čėžutė as: 1. “light footwear made of soft leather, without heels, for gymnastics, dancing, etc.; syn. gimnastikos batelis”; 2. plural “a pair of such footwear.” ĮSPIRTUKĖS. This is lightweight summer slip-on footwear. This Lithuanian footwear name is formed from the verb įspirti “4. to put or insert (a foot into a shoe, a loop)” (LKŽ) and the diminutive suffix -ukė. In the section titled Kalbos patarimų in a publication prepared in 2011 by the Information Centre of the Martynas Mažvydas National Library of Lithuania, readers are asked whether they know the correct Lithuanian name for “pliažankės.” We find the following answer: “The simplest substitute is paplūdimio basutės. A shorter name has also emerged in usage for slip-on sandals, not necessarily beach sandals – įs sort? A shorter name has also emerged in usage for slip-on sandals, not necessarily beach sandals – įs sort? “to shuffle.” When wearing these shoes, one walks with a shuffling gait. This footwear name, formed from the dialect word klepė and the diminutive suffix -utė, is also listed in AATŽ: kleputės see klepės (AATŽ 2014: 195). Klepės are defined here somewhat more precisely than in the source under examination: “Open clogs with a single wooden or plastic sole, the upper consisting of a small, narrow piece across the instep, usually classified as pantolettes”7 (ibid.). The name did not become widespread in usage. BOAT SHOES. A name for comfortable, flat women’s shoes that arose from their resemblance to a small boat. This footwear stays on the foot only because of the elasticity of the sides and heel counter. The name laiveliai is derived from the word laivas8 and the diminutive suffix -elis. It is also listed in AATŽ, but as a synonym of the term laivutės. Compare also equivalents in other languages: English court shoes, pumps; German Pumps; Russian лодочки, туфли-лодочки; French escarpins, souliers décolletés (AATŽ 2014: 230). J. Pričinauskas recommends kurpaitės: laivutės see kurpaitės as the principal term (Pričinauskas 2002: 67)9. LKŽ gives the singular form of the word; the meaning “shoes” is not mentioned. FLAT-SOLED SHOES. Shoes with flat soles are called by the Lithuanian derivative formed from the adjective lygus ‘1. entirely even—without depressions, protrusions, unevenness or inclusions (said of an object, its surface, edge, side, shape, colour, etc.)’ and the noun padas ‘2. the bottom of a shoe’, meaning shoes with flat soles. This adjective used as a noun is not found in LKŽ or AATŽ. It arose as a synonym for plokščiapadžiai, cf. DŽ plokščias ‘having a straight and even surface’: Flat roof, mountain. ~ chest, nose, foot. Cf. plokščiapadžiai. FLAT-SOLED SHOES. Shoes with flat soles are called plokščiapadžiai, a Lithuanian-origin derivative (cf. plokščias ‘flat’ and padas ‘sole’). In AATŽ, footwear with flat, unprofiled soles and no heel is called plokščiapadė avalynė (AATŽ 2014: 65). LKŽ includes the noun plokščiapadis ‘someone with flat soles’: Anas plokščiapādis Ad. This name is most often used in informal styles. Cf. lygiapadžiai. 7 Pantolettes (cf. Russian пантолеты, English pantolettes, German Pantoletten) are open summer or indoor footwear whose upper, made of straps or a wide band, covers only the front part of the foot, with the toes either open or covered; unlike sandalettes, they have no upper components touching the heel, e.g. clogs, slippers, flip-flops (AATŽ 2014: 301). Pantolettes is an old loanword; the words now recommended are klepės (this type of footwear) and kleputės (KP 2013: 87). 8 There is disagreement about the origin of this word. Some believe it may be a Finnicism, cf. Finnish laiva, Estonian laev; Sabaliauskas 1990: 227; cf. also http://etimologija.balt.netus.lt/?w=laivas. 9 In AATŽ, kurpaitės are defined separately: “Elegant, light, small, more open, usually high-heeled antique shoes resembling modern shoes, especially characteristic of the Rococo period” (AATŽ 2014: 219). 190 Aušra Rimkutė-Ganusauskienė | Naujieji avalynės pavadinimai RED-SOLED SHOES. This Lithuanian-origin name refers to high-heeled shoes with red soles (cf. LKŽ raudonas ‘1. the colour of blood’ and padas ‘sole’). Most often these are high heels created by the famous French shoe designer Christian Louboutin. The internet is full of synonyms whose components are all Lithuanian: raudonpadžiai bateliai, raudoni batai, taip pat „batai raudonais dugnais“, batai raudonais padais, bateliai raudonais padais and others; cf. English red sole shoes (for more, see French-origin names—the footwear name lubutenai). This name apparently arose through translation. It is not included in AATŽ. ROLLER SHOES. English roller shoe, cf. English shoes with wheels. This is another Lithuanian footwear name recorded in the Database of Neologisms, formed from Lithuanian-origin words riedėti ‘to roll’ and batai ‘shoes’, most likely coined by translation from English10. As the Database of Neologisms states, the name refers to “sports shoes with retractable wheels that turn the shoes into roller skates.” This footwear can be worn as ordinary sports shoes or used for skating. Various online articles use batai su ratukais, sportbačiai su ratukais, sportiniai batai su ratukais, riedantys sportiniai bateliai, riedantys sportbačiai. It is not included in AATŽ. The word is included in the most recent normative source, BŽ: riedbatis: “1. a shoe with a wheel fitted in the heel”; “2. plural: a pair of such shoes”. PERFORATED SHOES. In informal usage, this is the name for shoes with holes made by the Crocs company. The Lithuanian name is formed from the adjective skylėtas ‘having holes, hollow’ and the noun batai ‘shoes’. The name apparently refers to the holes in these shoes. Interestingly, this name, like kiaurabačiai, kiaurakaliošiai, has not caught on in usage. See also the synonyms kiaurabačiai, kiaurakaliošiai, kroksai. SHORT BOOTS. In colloquial speech, shoes with short shafts are called by the Lithuanian word trumpukai, cf. the adjective trumpas ‘1. short in length’. The footwear name recorded in the Database of Neologisms is used on the website voolyvooly.blogspot.com. It is apparently an accidental, individual neologism. Had it not been for the source under study, we might never have known about it. LKŽ defines trumpukas as ‘a short, small train’: Jie trumpukù parvažiavo Gs. The word is not in DŽ. In AATŽ, the term pusauulinukai apparently appears with this meaning: “Short-shafted boots, ankle boots whose shafts are considerably 10 Roller shoes originated in the United States. These shoes were developed by psychiatrist Roger Adams, who attached wheels to sports shoes. The shoes were patented in 1999. The original roller shoes are manufactured by the company Heelys. For this reason, in English they are often simply called Heelys. Terminologija | 2019 | 26 191 above the ankles, but not higher than halfway up the calf; also called short boots or short boots” (AATŽ 2014: 338). SUMMARY. The new footwear names discussed above show a tendency to form Lithuanian names using diminutive suffixes -ėlis; -utė; -(i)ukas, -ė; (in+)-ukas, -ė. These suffixes usually convey meanings such as smallness, endearment, insignificance, and so on, which are not characteristic of terms, but in footwear terminology they acquire a special meaning. Compound names with the second constituent -bačiai and -padžiai also stand out. They are formed according to a single pattern, with variation in the first constituent and, sometimes, the linking vowel. Some names apparently arose through translation from English, for example: killer shoes, red-soled shoes, skateboard shoes. Two Lithuanian footwear names for the “Crocs” brand were found: holey shoes and perforated shoes. The circumstances behind the emergence of these compounds and their semantic motivation are easy to understand and explain, but the proposed names have not caught on in usage. The Lithuanian footwear names found in the Database of Neologisms are used in informal language. Of all of them, only the name overshoes is recommended for use by AATŽ, while the names boat shoes and slippers are mentioned as synonyms. All the other native footwear names apparently arose through translation, in a search for a motivated, precise, shorter designation. In addition, in some cases there is an effort to align with the existing system, cf.: slippers, soft-soled shoes. Names of foreign origin Present-day borrowing is usually associated with the growing influence of English: many new loanwords have come from English or via English. A long-standing tradition of lexical purification has resulted in Lithuanian equivalents existing alongside some of the new loanwords. Some of the latter are also neologisms, more precisely, newly formed words. Not all the proposed equivalents enter active use; some are not widely used and give an impression of novelty and unfamiliarity. Most of the footwear names found in the Database of Neologisms are of English origin—16; there are only a few of other origins: 3 Latin, 2 French, and 1 each of Italian, Spanish, and Arabic origin (see Fig. 2). These, too, most likely entered our language via English. Non-Lithuanian footwear names are adapted, replaced by Lithuanian equivalents, or written in the original language. New footwear names of foreign origin are classified into groups according to their ultimate, rather than their immediate, source. 192 Aušra Rimkutė-Ganusauskienė | Naujieji avalynės pavadinimai Fig. 2. Distribution of new clothing names of foreign origin by origin Names of English origin Sixteen new footwear names derived from English were found (Fig. 2). The AATŽ lists six names as recommended for use; the others are used mostly in journalistic articles or on websites. BOTILJONAI. These are ankle boots with thin, high heels. This term is included in the AATŽ. The dictionary defines it more precisely: botiljonais refers to “shoes whose upper edge reaches or slightly covers the ankles, and whose loose upper part is reminiscent of a truncated bootleg” (AATŽ 2014: 95); cf. English bottillons, ordinary ankle boots; German Bottillon, knöchelhohe Stiefel; Russian ботильоны; French bottillon bas. The spelling variants batilionai, batiljonai can be found online. BROGAI. This foreign-origin word, cf. English brogues, brogue shoes, and Old Irish bróg ‘half-boot, footwear’, denotes classic men’s low shoes or boots with decorative perforations. These shoes “resemble those worn by Irish peasants and Scottish Highlanders, and acquired their modern, typical construction for formal footwear in the early 20th century, first and foremost thanks to Budapest shoemakers” (AATŽ 2014: 96). The history of brogues is interesting: many years ago, the Irish began making holes in the leather of shoes, which are now the defining feature of these shoes. At the time, however, the holes were made not as a style detail but for practical reasons—to allow moisture that accumulated while walking on wet ground to evaporate more easily from the shoe, or to let water drain out after getting into the shoes while wading through puddles. Terminologija | 2019 | 26 193 C H E L S E A. Shoes with sewn-in elastic or other stretch-material strips on the sides to make them easier to put on are called by the non-Lithuanian eponymous term11 Chelsea boots (English Chelsea Boots), derived from the name of the historic London district Chelsea (English Chelsea). In Queen Victoria’s time, Chelsea boots were worn by both men and women, and in the 1960s they became one of the style symbols of the period in Great Britain. AATŽ states that these shoes were also called Beatles boots (AATŽ 2014: 101; see also IŽ 2015: 438), also an eponymous term derived from the name of the popular 1960s band “The Beatles”: D E R B Y S. Classic shoes with open lacing, in which the side pieces are sewn onto the front part of the upper, are called by the name of non-Lithuanian origin derbiai12. In the AATŽ, these shoes are termed avalynė uždėtiniais šoneliais (cf. English quarter over shoes, Derby shoes; AATŽ 2014: 53). The English name for the shoes is associated with the surname of the English Earl Edward Derby. The dictionary gives another synonym of non-Lithuanian origin—bliukeriai (English Blucher). This name, too, comes from a proper name: the surname of the Prussian field marshal Gebhard Leberecht Blücher, who led the Prussian army into the Battle of Waterloo. The English Dictionary of Shoe Terms gives another synonym—gibsonai (English Gibsons, Gibson shoes). It is associated with the American artist and illustrator Charles Gibson, whose drawings popularized a distinctive style of women’s dress in the late 19th century during 1895–1910. In the AATŽ, the term gibsonai is used not as a synonym for derbiai, but as one type of derbių: gibsonais are defined as “women’s low shoes of the derby type with high heels (high-heeled derbies)” (AATŽ 2014: 151). F L A T F O R M S. The name is derived from the English words flat-forms < flat ‘flat’ and form ‘shape’. It refers to flat-soled, heel-less shoes with a platform. The AATŽ does not include this term. These shoes are generally called avalynė su platforma (AATŽ 2014: 52) or platformine avalyne (AATŽ 2014: 64), as well as storapadė avalynė (AATŽ 2014: 68), but not batais ant platformos. Although the term storapadė avalynė is given in dictionaries as the preferred term, this abundance of synonyms indicates that the most suitable term has yet to be found. 11 In this article, eponymous terms are understood as terms formed from a proper name (for more on eponymous terms, see Mikelionienė 2017: 127–144). 12 Derby is a 1,600 m race for four-year-old trotters and a 2,400 m race for three-year-old jumpers (VaitkTŽŽ 2003), while Interleksis gives two meanings: 1. a 1,600 m race for four-year-old trotters and a 2,400 m race for three-year-old jumpers; 2. a match between two teams from the same city (Interleksis 2003). The meaning ‘shoe’ is not given. 194 Aušra Rimkutė-Ganusauskienė | Naujieji avalynės pavadinimai As clothing designer Laura Mizgiryte-Latour writes, unlike ordinary platform shoes, flatforms have a continuous, flat sole: “From one to twenty centimetres high, from slip-on sandals to long boots” (MŽ 2016: 297). Flatform footwear was very popular “among underground street fashionistas and Goths, especially in Japan in the 1990s. It entered mainstream fashion in 2011, on the catwalks of the Chanel, Prada, and Vivienne Westwood collections” (MŽ 2016: 297). Thus, it is a particular type of thick-soled footwear. Interestingly, the spelling variant flatforms, platforms (French plate-forme), is also not used to describe shoes. In the previous century, the word platform spread into many European languages as a railway term. “There is no direct connection between a shoe platform and a railway platform. The name for a thick shoe sole arose from another meaning of the word platform. The oldest and most enduring meaning of the word platform is ‘a flat base for something’ (Gaivenis 2014: 557). Thus, today the word platform denotes the part of the underside of footwear between the insole and the sole.” In the illustrated glossary, shoes with high heels and very thick, raised soles, popular during the rock and disco era of the 1970s, are called thick-soled shoes (IŽ 2015: 458). FLIP-FLOPS. Lightweight rubber beach footwear slipped on and held in place by a strap between the toes is called by the word flipflopai, which comes from Germanic languages. In English, the name flip-flop has been used since the 1860s to refer to summer sandals. Germans use Flip-Flops or Flipflops. Other languages have different names, for example, Polish japonki, Russian вьетнамки (this incorrectly formed word may be associated with wearing this footwear in Vietnam)13. The AATŽ does not include this name. Lightweight footwear for indoors, streets, or pools, with a strap across the top passing between the big toe and the adjacent toe, is called thong sandals or Vietnamese sandals (AATŽ 2014: 356). Walking in this footwear produces a slapping sound (see also GST). The footwear name flipflopai was formed by adding a Lithuanian ending. The Database of Lithuanian Neologisms notes that “there is currently no exact Lithuanian equivalent; the meaning of the neologism įs irtukės is somewhat broader.” KILLERS. A nonstandard footwear name (English killer shoes) is used to describe the killer shoes already discussed (see Names of Lithuanian origin). This metaphorical name is not included in the AATŽ. According to the Database of Lithuanian Neologisms, it is used on various websites. 13 A nonstandard borrowing, vietnamkės, can be found in the press. Terminologija | 2019 | 26 195 In the 2003 dictionary of international words Interleksis, we find the label ntk. (“not recommended”) and only one meaning for the word kileris: “killer”. CROCS. As already mentioned, the rubber footwear of the “Crocs” brand is called by the foreign-origin word kroksai (English crocs, cf. German Crocs). This name is very common in spoken language and is not included in the AATŽ. The name kroksai is sometimes used not only for the footwear of the aforementioned company, but also for any clogs with thick, usually rubber, soles, as well as for any rubber slip-on shoes. The State Commission of the Lithuanian Language’s Consultation Bank provides further equivalents: garden shoes, leisure shoes, and beach shoes. These are not included in the Database of Lithuanian Neologisms. See also perforated shoes, perforated galoshes, holey shoes. LORDS. This English-origin name refers to closed women’s pumps with a small tongue and a very low heel (English Lord’s shoes). It is not included in the AATŽ. This name is used as a synonym for loafers (see also louferiai). LOAFERS. Easily slipped-on, low-heeled leather shoes resembling moccasins, with a decorative band across the front (an elegant variety of moccasins), are named after a footwear company registered in London in 1939; cf. English loafer, “idler, tramp, wanderer.” The AATŽ, as well as the Illustrated Glossary and the Glossary of Fashion Wordplay, gives the form loaferai (AATŽ 2014: 239; IŽ 2015: 448; MBŽ 2017). These shoes are also called Norwegian moccasins (AATŽ 2014: 239). Websites discussing these shoes use nonstandard variants of the footwear name: loaferiai, Loafers-type shoes, simply Loafers (MSŽ 2010; MŽ 2010; MMŽ 2013); the phrase shoes without laces is also used (B 2018). In the English Dictionary of Shoe Terms, these shoes are also called moccasins. The nonstandard form louferiai is also used in L. Mizgiryte-Latour’s Fashion Glossary (MŽ 2016: 304). MONKS. Closed men’s or women’s low shoes with a wide strap and a buckle (or buckles) on the side of the foot are called by the English-origin name monkai (English monks, “monks,” monk shoes, monk strap, Monkstrap Shoe). Interestingly, footwear with this type of fastening was formerly worn by monks. In the AATŽ, these shoes are called by the Lithuanian compound term low shoes with buckles (AATŽ 2014: 264), while the Fashion Glossary gives the name monks (MŽ 2016: 317). The dictionary’s authors give the adapted form monkai as a synonym. The Guide to Men’s Shoe Styles distinguishes single-buckle monk shoes (English single buckle monks) and double-buckle monk shoes (English double buckle monks). 196 Aušra Rimkutė-Ganusauskienė | Naujieji avalynės pavadinimai OXFORDS. “Short, unpretentious lace-up low shoes or shoes with a slightly pointed toe and two pieces joining over the tongue,” according to the Database of Lithuanian Neologisms, are called by the eponymic term oksfordai (English Oxford shoes, oxfords). The name is associated with the University of Oxford: at the beginning of the 19th century, students were very fond of low-heeled, lace-up shoes in a men’s style, so shoemakers called this footwear by that name to distinguish it from boots. Interestingly, women began wearing these shoes in the 1830s. The distinguishing feature of contemporary oxfords is their lace-up front. In AATŽ they are called by the term avalynė uždėtinė jungtimi (ATTŽ 2014: 53); synonyms of foreign origin are also given: oksfordai, rišėlie (cf. Cardinal Armand Richelieu), balmoralai. The latter footwear name is most commonly used by Americans (MŽ 2016: 306). It is said that the shoes became popular and came to be called this after Prince Albert was spotted wearing them while on holiday at the royal Balmoral Castle in Scotland (English Balmorals). SKATE SHOES. The name for skateboarders’ shoes probably comes from English skate shoes [skeit ʃu:s], with the plural ending –ai added; cf. also skateboard shoes, “shoes for skateboarding.” This name of English origin is used in informal registers; so far, there is no Lithuanian equivalent. Apparently, riedlentininkų batai could be used. There are numerous spelling variants: skateshoozai, skateshoosai, skateshoesai, skateshoos’ai, skate shoe, etc. SNEAKERS. This is the name for lightweight sports or casual shoes with a textile canvas upper and vulcanized soles (English sneaker, sneakers, “basketball shoes, trainers, sneakers”; cf. also English sneak up, “to sneak up”). This footwear originated in the United States in the mid-19th century. At first it was called smėlio avalyne (“sand footwear”), as it was most popular on beaches. “In 1873 the English word sneaker appeared; it is thought to have arisen because rubber soles allowed children to approach one another unnoticed, that is, quietly, while playing. The term became widespread after basketball began to be played in 1917” (AATŽ 2014: 380). This name is included in AATŽ (ibid.). Elsewhere, they are called by compound terms sportiniai bateliai (B 2018), sportinio tipo bateliai (BatŽ 2018), kasdieniai sportiniai bateliai (B 2018). Sneakers are most often worn for dancing.14 ANKLE BOOTS. Short, lightweight boots. The term was apparently borrowed from Germanic languages; cf. English shtiblet, German Stiefelette, “low shoe, short boots.” The Illustrated glossary notes that these shoes, worn by both men and women, appeared— 14 Krepšinio batai anksčiau vadinti ir nevartotina svetimybe basket(k)ės (TT 1992: 22; plg. KP 2013: 14). Terminologija | 2019 | 26 197 —in the last decade of the 19th century and at the beginning of the 20th. This term of non-Lithuanian origin is listed as acceptable for use in AATŽ (AATŽ 2014: 408). In the Great Shoe Lexicon, it is stated in German that the German terms Ankle Boots and Booties are also used synonymously (DGL). UGGS. As the Database of Lithuanian Neologisms states, these are “flat-soled sheepskin boots made by the Australian company ‘Ugg’” (English Ugg boots, “ugly, hideous boots”). These boots are intended for both men and women. Their interiors are made of wool, which allows air to circulate inside the boot and protects the feet from temperature changes. The Illustrated glossary gives the form ugai (IŽ 2015: 461); online, one can also find the expressions UGG stiliaus batai, UGG tipo batai, etc. AATŽ does not include this footwear name. Thus, this is another footwear name derived from a proper company name. So far, we have no Lithuanian name for them. The form ugai may catch on; cf. kroksai. Names of Latin origin Three new footwear names of Latin origin were found. They undoubtedly entered Lithuanian by way of intermediary languages. BALLERINAS. This is the name for women’s low-heeled shoes resembling ballet pointe shoes (Italian ballerina < Latin ballo, “I dance”). As stated in the book Ledi. Klasikinės moterų mados žinynas, ballet flats appeared in London in 1932. They were created by Jacob Bloch. Initially, ballerinas were worn by ballet dancers. Authentic ballerinas, “in keeping with traditional practice, are made of fabric and differ from ballet shoes only in the sole. The sole is somewhat thicker so that the shoe can be worn on asphalt” (Piras, Roetzel 2003: 173). In LKŽ, DŽ and BŽ the word balerina means “a ballet artist, a dancer.” Thus, the meaning “shoes” is new. In standard language, the mixed-origin name balerinukės is recommended for use (see Names of mixed origin). GLADIATORS. This is a name of Latin origin: Latin gladiatores < gladius, “sword”; cf. English gladiator sandal; DŽ defines gladiatorius historically as “a combatant in the bloody contests of the circuses of ancient Rome.” As the Database of Lithuanian Neologisms states, this name refers to summer shoes with cut-out details or laces, long uppers, and open toes. In AATŽ we find the term gladiatoriški sandalai. Here this footwear is defined more precisely: “Flat sandals with several wide straps across the foot and one or more straps running around the lower leg” (AATŽ 2014: 355). In dictionaries of international words, gladiatoriais usually refers to warriors of ancient Rome who fought one another or wild beasts in amphitheatre arenas (Interleksis 2003; VaitkTŽŽ 2003). Footwear was an important part of gladiators’ attire—it served a protective function. Today, “this footwear has become 198 Aušra Rimkutė-Ganusauskienė | Naujieji avalynės pavadinimai nepakeičiama vasaros ir hipiško-bohemiško stiliaus avalyne“ (MŽ 2016: 297). L. Mizgirytės-Latour sudarytame Mados žodynėlyje pateikiamas lietuviškas šio avalynės pavadinimo atitikmuo dirželinės basutės (MB 2016: 297). Internete dar randame vadinant gladiatoriaus batais. LKŽ, DŽ ir BŽ pateikiama tik „vergo ar karo belaisvio“ reikšmė. STILETTOS. In the Database of Lithuanian Neologisms, “shoes with pointed toes” and very high heels are called by the non-Lithuanian word stilettos. The name derives from Italian stiletto “dagger” < and Latin stilus “writing stylus” (VaitkTŽŽ 2003), cf. English stiletto15. A classical stiletto, as described in the Universal Lithuanian Encyclopedia, is “a small Italian dagger with a very thin, usually triangular blade with sharpened edges” (VLE 2019). “The first time shoe heels were associated with this dagger was in the early 1930s. Eventually, the tradition became established of calling shoes with extremely thin heels 2.5–25 centimetres high stilettos. Heels lower than 5 cm are now called kitten heels (English kitten heels). Throughout history, elegant shoes with high, slender heels have been a symbol of high social status—you cannot walk far or work much in them, and so on. <...>. Pointed-toe stilettos were most popular during the prosperous 1950s; in the 1960s, toes became rectangular and heels block-shaped (<...>); in the 1970s, platforms grew onto them; in the 1980s, they acquired the appearance familiar today; in the 1990s, they once again became blunt-toed and thick-heeled, <...>” (MŽ 2016: 313). The Batų žodynėlyje gives the Lithuanian equivalent high-heeled shoes with pointed heels (BatŽ 2018). It states that “the history of stiletto shoes began in 1955, when R. Vivier, shoe designer at the Dior fashion house, introduced the first stiletto-style high heels” (ibid.). In addition to this, the article “Shoes you must have. For him and her” also suggests another Lithuanian equivalent—evening shoes (B 2018). This name does not appear in AATŽ. The Great Shoe Lexicon states in German that stilettos (German Stilettos) are a synonym for the term high-heeled shoes (DGL). It says that they appeared in the 19th century, with the aim of visually reducing the size of the foot. Names of French origin LOUBOUTINS. This is the name for the red-soled high-heeled shoes created by designer Ch. Louboutin (see also the section Names of Lithuanian origin 15The Cambridge Dictionary defines English stiletto as women’s shoes with a high, narrow heel. Available online: https://dictionary.cambridge.org/dictionary/english/stiletto. Terminologija | 2019 | 26 199 (names – red-soled shoes). This eponymous footwear name derives from the French louboutin < Louboutin. Deimantė Bulbenkaitė writes in the Fashion Glossary that these shoes are considered “a symbol of quality and fashion knowledge, so having at least one pair of red-soled shoes in one’s wardrobe is a matter of prestige” (MŽ 2010). Interestingly, the red soles of these shoes came about by chance—the designer, “wishing to give the footwear she had designed something new and unexpected, tried painting the sole of a pair of high heels with a colleague’s red Chanel nail polish” (MŽ 2010). Online, one can find the forms “labutinai,” “lubutenai,” louboutinai, Louboutin, “Louboutinai,” “Louboutin” shoes. This name does not appear in AATŽ. The Database of New Borrowings (hereafter NSDB 2013) records the form lubutenai. TROPEZIENNES. “Open sandals with a thin leather sole and straps,” as described in the Database of Neologisms, are called tropezetės (French tropéziennes). This is a chance name. In Lithuanian, such footwear is usually simply called sandals. The name tropezetės does not appear in AATŽ. Italian-origin name “A R M A D I L L O”. Italian armadillo “armadillo”16, cf. English Armadillo boots. As stated in the Database of Lithuanian Neologisms, this name refers to cumbersome, uncomfortable high-heeled shoes with a bulky shape resembling an armadillo, designed for walking the runway. They were created by British experimental fashion designer Lee Alexander McQueen. The name of these shoes is written in quotation marks. Other expressions used to refer to them include “Armadillo” shoes, alien footwear, “alien” shoes, space shoes, killer shoes, hooves, and so on. This name is not found in AATŽ. Spanish-origin name M A N O L A S. The very decorative, original-design, high-quality, luxurious high-heeled shoes by Spanish shoe designer Manuel (Manolo) Blahnik Rodríguez are named with a word of Spanish origin, derived from Spanish manolos < Manolo. Thus, this is an eponymous term derived from a word of non-Lithuanian origin. This footwear name is not found in AATŽ. It is recorded in NSDB in 2013. It is sometimes called by the two-word name Manolo shoes (Jacobbi 2007: 24). 16Armadillos, or armadillos, are animals common in the southern parts of North and South America, whose bodies are covered by a flexible skin armor made up of hard plates arranged in movable transverse rows (VLE 2019). 200 Aušra Rimkutė-Ganusauskienė | Naujieji avalynės pavadinimai Arabic-origin name BABUSHAS17. This usually refers to warm, raised indoor footwear or simply light leather footwear without a heel or sides, worn in Eastern countries. AATŽ gives the form babušiai (AATŽ 2014: 76). The name is derived from Arabic babush or Persian papush “slipper”; cf. also Persian pa “foot,” pouchiden “to cover.” It apparently entered Lithuanian via Russian—Russian бабуши; cf. English babouches, French Babouches, German Babuschen. SUMMARY. Database of Lithuanian Neologisms contains more than half (51 percent, see Fig. 1) of footwear names of non-Lithuanian origin. Three quarters of these are not recorded in AATŽ. The new footwear names used in colloquial speech Manolos, Louboutins show that footwear of non-Lithuanian origin can be named after its author, inventor, or creator, i.e., by a personal name; Chelseas, Oxfords—after a place; and Crocs, loafers, Uggs—after a brand name. Footwear names of foreign origin, especially those derived from English, have many variants. Although trends in the use of new footwear names can often be predicted from their form and motivation, more time is needed to see which of them take root, which compete, and which fall into oblivion. Footwear names of foreign origin tend to be graphically distinguished, that is, set in bold or italic type or placed in quotation marks, especially when an unadapted form is used. They are distinguished graphically because it is not always clear how to adapt them, and writing them this way does not violate the principles of standard-language purification. Names of mixed origin In this article, mixed-origin new footwear names are considered to be both one-word footwear names that contain, in addition to their own-language elements, elements from a foreign language, and two-word names in which one component is non-Lithuanian and the other Lithuanian. In total, 10 mixed-origin footwear names were found in the Database of Neologisms (Fig. 1). BALERINUKĖS. These are lightweight shoes with flat soles and very low heels, without lining, resembling pumps and ballerinas’ shoes (AATŽ 2014: 76). They are named with a word of mixed origin, cf. balerina (Italian Ballerina < Latin ballo) and the suffix -ukės. The name arose from their resemblance to the pointe shoes worn by ballerinas (French pointe ‘point, tip’)—hard-toed women’s ballet shoes— 17 Babušai, Persian paipušai—leather slippers in the East, taken off when entering a room (LEe). Terminologija | 2019 | 26 201 ssical ballet shoes. Cf. English ballerina shoes, ballerina flats, flatties. The Database of Neologisms also records the synonymous variants balerinos, balerinkės, baletinukės. They are also called balerinos batais, balerinos tipo batais (BatŽ 2018; B 2018). Cf. see baletinukės. BALETINUKĖS. This is a synonym of the word balerinukės, formed from the international word baletas (Italian Balletto < Latin ballo ‘ball, dance’) and the suffix -inukės. For more, see balerinukės. BASEINUKĖS. Rubber or plastic slip-on shoes worn by people visiting swimming pools. The name is derived from the word baseinas (French bassin ‘basin, reservoir’) and the suffix -ukės, cf. English basins ‘swimming pool’. This name is not found in AATŽ. INKARIUKAI. The name is formed from the so-called old borrowing18 inkaras (German Anker < Latin ancora < Greek ἄγκυρα; Sabaliauskas 1990: 265) and the suffix -ukas. There are other footwear names with the suffix -ukas, cf. aulinukai, bačiukai, batukai, muklukai, pasaulinukai, sportukai, startukai, žąsinukai, and so on. Thus, this word-formation type is not new—the suffix -ukas has a specialized meaning. This eponymous name refers to sports shoes made of durable fabric with rubber soles. They are named after the “Inkaras” factory, founded in Kaunas in 1933, where various rubber footwear—rubber boots, galoshes, and sports shoes—was produced. “When Lithuanian ‘inkarai’ began to be manufactured, these sports shoes became an inseparable part of the style of Lithuanian youth,” reads the website https://www.zmones.lt/. The website https://www.lofficiel.lt/ reminds readers that “the vulcanized-sole shoes that flourished in the Soviet era19 were manufactured not only in our country. This footwear was produced by many states that were part of the Soviet Union, as well as by major countries around the world. The French had, and still have, ‘Bensimon’; ‘MoonStar’, created in the late 19th century, is still made by the Japanese today; the Russians had ‘Два мяча’20, while the American ‘Converse’ remain just as popular as they were a hundred years ago (L’officiel 2019).” Spelling varies. They are quite often written in quotation marks, e.g.: “inkariukai”, “In-karo” sports shoes, “Inkaro” sneakers, “Inkaro” sports shoes, “inkarai”. All these names are most often used in informal styles of writing 18 Old borrowings are fully adapted to our language system. They generally have no native equivalents or synonyms, so in this article they are classified as native vocabulary. 19 There is a punctuation error in the quoted passage—the comma after the word padu is unnecessary. 20 Russian Два мяча. 202 Aušra Rimkutė-Ganusauskienė | Naujieji avalynės pavadinimai In clothing terminology dictionaries, it is not listed. In colloquial speech, inkariukais often refers to sports shoes of any brand. Cf. konversiukai. P E R F O R A T E D G A L O S H E S. It was proposed that the perforated shoes made by “Crocs” be called kiaurakaliošiai. This name is formed from the adjective kiauras ‘perforated’ and the old borrowing kaliošas ‘rubber footwear worn over a shoe or felt boot’, borrowed from Polish (Polish kalosz), from French galoches ‘wooden shoes, clogs’, in turn from Latin solea gallica ‘footwear of the inhabitants of Gaul’. It has not gained currency, so it could be considered an authorial coinage. See also the synonyms kiaurabačiai, krobsai, skylėtbačiai. S Q U A R E - T O E S. This is the name for shoes with square toes. It is formed from the international word kvadratas (Latin quadratus) and the Lithuanian word nosis (LKŽe 4. ‘the projecting, pointed front part of an object’: His shoes had hard toes Lš. Do not tread down the toe of the bast shoe—the water will run inside Gdl.). AATŽ does not include this footwear name. It is apparently used as a noun for the sake of brevity. It is recorded only in the Database of Lithuanian Neologisms and has not gained currency. C O N V E R S E S. The English equivalent of this footwear name is Converse shoes. Konversiukais refers to the canvas sports shoes with rubber soles made by the company “Converse”. Their distinguishing feature is a five-pointed star. This diminutive footwear name is formed from the eponymous name konversai21 and the suffix –(i)ukas. It is not listed in AATŽ. The names konversai and konversiukai, like inkariukai, are most often used colloquially to refer to stylish and fashionable casual sports shoes of any brand. M O C C A S I N B O O T S. Boots made in a moccasin construction, with shafts covering the ankles and calves, are named by a compound word of mixed origin, formed from the long-established footwear term mokasinai22 and the Lithuanian word batai. Cf. English moccasins boots. AATŽ does not include this footwear name. S P O R T S H O E S. This neologism refers to sports shoes. In DŽ, the word sportinukai is used to mean ‘shirts intended for sports’, while in LKŽ it means ‘sleeveless men’s undershirt’. Lightweight shoes worn for exercising are usually called sporto, or sportiniais, batukais, or bateliais. Of course, a two-word name is inconvenient in everyday speech, especially colloquial speech. We are all well familiar with the compound word sportbačiai, which 21 NSDB 2013 defines konversai as canvas sports shoes with rubber toes. 22 AATŽ defines mokasinai (Algonquian moccasinah, ‘covering for the feet’) as follows: ‘a type of leather footwear of a particular construction, without heels, worn by North American Indians’ (AATŽ 2014: 264). There are genuine and imitation moccasins (ibid.). Terminologija | 2019 | 26 203 we find in DŽ, LKŽ, and AATŽ. In the Dictionary of Sports Terms these shoes are called sports shoes (cf. English sports shoes), while the one-word names sportbačiai and sportukai are given as synonyms (LRTB). In informal styles, sportinuku is also used to refer to a sports stroller for children. This new meaning is also recorded in the Database of Neologisms. TAXI SHOES. Women's shoes with very high heels are called not only killer shoes but also taxi shoes (English taxi shoes). This is a two-word name, one component of which is international (cf. the international word taksi (French taxi)), while the other is Lithuanian (batai). It is a literal translation from English. The online colloquial-language dictionary Urban Dictionary says these are impractical and uncomfortable shoes for walking long distances, worn when going to clubs or events, which is precisely why one needs to call a taxi. Thus, they are called this because it is difficult to walk in them. For more, see killer shoes, cf. killers. SUMMARY. Most of the newly coined footwear names discussed that are of mixed origin have a foreign-origin base stem and a Lithuanian affix (suffix). The AATŽ includes only balerinukės. Thus, not all footwear names are precise, clear, correct, and approved. In discussing new footwear names, the terminologist Kazimieras Gaivenis's observation about newly emerging words is highly relevant: “The abundance of neologisms (or newly coined words) is often determined not by linguistic but by other (social or even entirely non-linguistic) causes. Therefore, not only the active part of the nation (those who themselves create linguistic innovations and take an interest in language), but also the passive part (those who do not accept linguistic innovations or are not interested in language matters at all) participate in the work of creating language (in general) or terminology (in our case)” (Gaivenis 1990: 12). CONCLUSIONS 1. New footwear names make up a small proportion of footwear names and reflect nearly three decades of usage. A total of 47 footwear names were found in the Database of Neologisms. Nearly a third (28%) are designated by words of Lithuanian origin: overshoes, killer shoes, slippers, slip-ons, perforated shoes, clogs, boat shoes, flat-soled shoes, flats, red-soled shoes, skate shoes, holey shoes, short shoes. Slightly more than half (51%) of the footwear names identified are non-Lithuanian: of English origin (68%): ankle boots, brogues, Chelsea boots, derbies, flatforms, flip-flops, killers, Crocs, lords, loafers, monk shoes, Oxfords, skate shoes, sneakers, ankle boots, Uggs; of Latin 204 Aušra Rimkutė-Ganusauskienė | Naujieji avalynės pavadinimai origin (12%): ballet flats, gladiator sandals, stilettos; of French origin (8%): Louboutins, Tropeziennes; of Italian origin (4%): “armadillos”; of Spanish origin (4%): Manolos; of Arabic origin (4%): babouches. The smallest group consists of footwear names designated by words of mixed origin (21%): ballet flats, ballet shoes, pool shoes, Inkariukai, perforated galoshes, Converse-style shoes, square-toed shoes, moccasin shoes, sports shoes, taxi shoes. 2. Lithuanian and mixed-origin new footwear names tend to be formed with diminutive suffixes –ukai: Inkariukai, sportinukai, trumpukai, konversiukai; –ukės: slip-ons, balerinukės, baletinukės, baseinukės; –utės: slippers, kleputės; and –eliai: boat shoes. Compounds with the endings –bačiai: perforated shoes, skate shoes, holey shoes, moccasin shoes; and –padžiai: flat-soled shoes, flats, red-soled shoes; less commonly, compounds with the endings –kaliošiai: perforated galoshes; and –nosiai: square-toed shoes. 3. Some of the new footwear names discussed that are not recorded in dictionaries will probably remain in passive use, for example: trumpukai, square-toed shoes, Tropeziennes, holey shoes, perforated galoshes, among others. Others, such as Crocs, Inkariukai, Converse-style shoes, have already entered active use: they are often mentioned in the public sphere and are widespread in informal styles. Although they are not among the approved footwear terms, they are widely used, as shown by the examples of usage in the Database of Neologisms, including examples from stylists, journalists, bloggers, and others who write about fashion. The emergence of new footwear names, their spread, or their failure to catch on in usage is a natural phenomenon in the development of terminology (and language in general), reflecting changes in terminology and even its deficiencies. 4. The Internet is an environment that influences the development of footwear terminology, because those who create footwear terminology often cannot keep up: new concepts emerge much more rapidly, both as a result of rapid globalization and of the development of new technologies. This is also reflected in the new footwear names, along with their synonyms and variants, recorded in the Database of Neologisms. MAIN SOURCE Database of Lithuanian Neologisms. Continuing online reference work since 2011. Compiled and edited by R. Mi-liūnaitė, A. Aleksaitė, Vilnius: Institute of the Lithuanian Language. Available online: http://naujažodžiai.lki.lt [accessed June–October 2019]. ADDITIONAL SOURCES AATŽ 2014: Ratautas S. A., Strazdienė E. ir Gulbinienė A. Aiškinamasis aprangos terminų žodynas: daugiau nei 6000 terminų lietuvių, anglų, vokiečių, prancūzų ir rusų kalbomis, Kaunas: Technologija. AATŽ 2001: Aiškinamasis tekstilės terminų žodynas: su vokiečių, anglų, prancūzų ir rusų kalbų atitikmenimis. Parengė R. Čiukas, J. Katunskis, A. Kaulakienė ir kt., Kaunas: Technologija, 2001. Terminologija | 2019 | 26 205 B 2018: Bateliai, kuriuos privalu turėti. Jam ir jai [sukurta 2018-03-12]. 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Valstybinė lietuvių kalbos komisija. Prieiga per internetą: www.vlkk.lt. Žmonės.lt 2019: Legendinis „Inkaras“ atgimsta: avėti krepšininkų ir paprastų vaikučių, šiandien sportbačiai grįžta [publikuota 2019-07-30]. Prieiga per internetą: www.zmones.lt/naujiena/legendinis-%E2%80%9Einkaras-atgimsta-aveti-krepsininku-ir-paprastu-vaikezu-siandien-sportbaciai-grizta.b24e5770-b2c9-11e9-a421-aa000054c883 [žiūrėta 2019-08-03]. THE NEW NAMES OF FOOTWEAR S u m m a r y The online Database of Lithuanian Neologisms (http://naujazodziai.lki.lt) is a source of the contemporary Lithuanian language that was founded in the end of 2011 and has been updated till now. It accumulates the new 21st century lexicon reflecting changes in the lexicon of the Lithuanian language. The article is aimed at reviewing the names of contemporary footwear found in the Database of Lithuanian Neologisms, determining their origin, and discussing their expression. 47 names, that is to say, 38 different names of contemporary footwear and their synonyms are described in the article. It was found that 28% of the names of contemporary footwear found in the Database of Lithuanian Neologisms are of Lithuanian origin (antbačiai, batai žudikai, čežutės, įspirtukės, kiaurabačiai, kleputės, laiveliai, lygiapadžiai, plokščiapadžiai, raudonpa- Terminologija | 2019 | 26 207 džiai, riedbačiai, skylėbačiai, trumpukai), 51% – of non-Lithuanian origin (English origin: botiljonai, brogai, čelsiai, derbiai, flatformos, flipflopai, kileriai, kroksai, lordsai, louferiai, monkai, oksfordai, skeičiužai, snikeriai, šibletai, ugsai; Latin origin: balerinos, gladiatoriai, stiletai; Italian origin: “armadilai”; French origin: lubutenai, tropezėtės; Spanish origin: manolai; Arabic origin: babušai), and 21% – of mixed origin (balerinukės, baletinukės, baseinukės, inkariukai, kiaurakaliošiai, konversiukai, kvadratnosiai, mokasinbačiai, sportinukai, taksi batai). The names of Lithuanian and mixed origins tend to have diminutive suffixes -ukai: inkariukai, sportinukai, trumpukai, konversiukai; -ukes: spirtukės, balerinukės, baletinukės, baseinukės; -utės: čežutės, kleputės; and -eliai: laiveliai. Compounds are frequent with suffixes -bačiai: kiaurabačiai, riedbačiai, skylėbačiai, mokasinbačiai; -kaliošiai: kiaurakaliošiai; -nosiai: kvadratnosiai; -padžiai: lygiapadžiai, plokščiapadžiai, raudonpadžiai. A part of the names of new footwear discussed in this article are neologisms that were created not by linguists or footwear experts, what is more, they are not found in any official recommendations or language use nor terminological dictionaries. They are used mostly by stylists, journalists, and bloggers writing about fashion. The emergence of new names of contemporary footwear, their spread or non-adoption is a natural phenomenon of terminology (and language in general) development that reflects a change or even lack of terms. Gauta 2019-09-09 Aušra Rimkutė-Ganusauskienė Lietuvių kalbos institutas P. Vileišio g. 4, LT-10308 Vilnius E. paštas [email protected] 208 Aušra Rimkutė-Ganusauskienė | Naujieji avalynės pavadinimai